Today, we trekked to the monastery on the eastern part of Ulaan Baatar. Once we arrived, we were free to go our separate ways, so I spent most of the day sloshing around on the muddy streets of the ger district. I walked side-by-side with child-monks in their red and yellow robes and old men and women dressed in traditional deels past make-shift wooden fences and felt gers dulled by the city dust.
As I was walking, I encountered a house with a filthy glass window behind which were two little girls waving at me frantically. Their giant grins gave me permission to take their pictures as they stood there in their knock-off American shirts. The images are a bit blurry, but I love them anyway.
Now, I'm kicking the mud off of my shoes and preparing for our 3-day trek into the Gobi desert!
Monday, June 23, 2008
Traditional Mongolian Performance
Last night, our group attended a theatre performance of traditional Mongolian music and dancing. Basically, it was spectacular. The troupe performs nightly for tourists in a dinner theatre-like situation, but don't let that fool you - I can't even describe how talented they were.
Wearing period costumes representing the varied tribes that once comprised Mongolia, the dance ensemble paraded across the stage. Throat singers, fiddlers and 'traditional chamber music' served as the score for contortionists and Shamen (?) whose bodies moved in ways mine definitely never could. I filled my entire 4 gig memory card before the second half.
Afterward, Namuun, our guide, arranged for us to go backstage and meet/photograph the cast! While I was back there, one of the women let me wear her amazing hat. I have a picture, but it's REALLY blurry since I couldn't explain how to use the camera to the Mongolian dancer who took it.
Wearing period costumes representing the varied tribes that once comprised Mongolia, the dance ensemble paraded across the stage. Throat singers, fiddlers and 'traditional chamber music' served as the score for contortionists and Shamen (?) whose bodies moved in ways mine definitely never could. I filled my entire 4 gig memory card before the second half.
Afterward, Namuun, our guide, arranged for us to go backstage and meet/photograph the cast! While I was back there, one of the women let me wear her amazing hat. I have a picture, but it's REALLY blurry since I couldn't explain how to use the camera to the Mongolian dancer who took it.
Photos At Last!
The contortionists from the theatre performance last night.
The guy on the right is my new Dominican friend, Pedro. The two on the left are the Mongolians who tried to steal our beer.
This is a shot of some architecture in Ulaan Baatar.
This is the Ger District in Ulaan Baatar.
Here is the Wise Old Man from the theatre performance last night.
Photo Class in Mongolia
Since my arrival two days ago at the Continental Hotel - which is a considerably different experience than that of the UB Guesthouse - I have met my collegues, attended class and visited Ulaan Baatar's finest tourist destinations.
The lectures are very much at the same level as any class at Moore, and Professor Iwamasa (Ken), though he keeps the atmosphere light, is very serious about teaching us proper technique in conjunction with helping us find our 'artistic vision' (for lack of a better term.)
Throughout the class, we must turn in 30 good, edited photos each day and also develop a series of 30 photos that are related to a theme of our choosing for our final portfolio. I'm still throwing around ideas for my final, but right now I'm thinking about nomadism (is that a word?) and recreation. We'll see how it goes.
My classmates are all from the University of Colorado at Boulder, and we are definitely a motley crew. Two are art students (one of which is a non-traditional student with a photo emphasis), two are frat boys (but well-behaved more or less), one is a history major and my roommate is a recent psych grad from Minnesota.
More later!
The lectures are very much at the same level as any class at Moore, and Professor Iwamasa (Ken), though he keeps the atmosphere light, is very serious about teaching us proper technique in conjunction with helping us find our 'artistic vision' (for lack of a better term.)
Throughout the class, we must turn in 30 good, edited photos each day and also develop a series of 30 photos that are related to a theme of our choosing for our final portfolio. I'm still throwing around ideas for my final, but right now I'm thinking about nomadism (is that a word?) and recreation. We'll see how it goes.
My classmates are all from the University of Colorado at Boulder, and we are definitely a motley crew. Two are art students (one of which is a non-traditional student with a photo emphasis), two are frat boys (but well-behaved more or less), one is a history major and my roommate is a recent psych grad from Minnesota.
More later!
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Out on the Town
Yesterday, in spite of being cooped up in the hostel for most of the day while waiting for word on my baggage, I managed to sneak away for some dinner and later for a night out with new friends.
I found a small restaurant around the corner from the hostel which was operated by two teenage girls and their mother. The girls were really adorable - they watched music television and sang along to their favorite songs, totally disregarding the presence of their only customer (me). I was treated well, however, and for bargain prices. I ate a veritable bucket of tomato and egg soup with a side of fried bread and drank almost a full pot of tea all for only 1,700 tugriks (which is about $1.50). The tea here is delicious - green with a slightly fruity aftertaste.
Later, my new friends Pedro and Miguel from the Dominican Republic invited me out for a night on the town. First, we went to this large Irish pub with outdoor seating and live music (a Mongolian band whose singer, a petite but saucy young woman, belted out popular American tunes like "Let it Be" and "Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend"). We had just placed our order when two old (drunk) Mongolian men sat down beside us at our table at first claiming to just want to watch the singer, but later began encroaching more and more until they were flagrantly attempting to steal Pedro's beer. The guys were really frustrated because we couldn't get the old men to leave, so we left - and left our new buddies the bill - and ended up in another restaurant and pub called the Savannah. It was eerily quiet there, but at least we were left alone! (For the record, I thought those two old men were pretty hilarious.) After Savannah, we went to yet another "Irish pub" near the hostel and sampled some local Mongolian beer.
Though Ulaan Baatar is no New York City, I'm finding that it certainly has a very particular urban experience to offer its visitors.
I found a small restaurant around the corner from the hostel which was operated by two teenage girls and their mother. The girls were really adorable - they watched music television and sang along to their favorite songs, totally disregarding the presence of their only customer (me). I was treated well, however, and for bargain prices. I ate a veritable bucket of tomato and egg soup with a side of fried bread and drank almost a full pot of tea all for only 1,700 tugriks (which is about $1.50). The tea here is delicious - green with a slightly fruity aftertaste.
Later, my new friends Pedro and Miguel from the Dominican Republic invited me out for a night on the town. First, we went to this large Irish pub with outdoor seating and live music (a Mongolian band whose singer, a petite but saucy young woman, belted out popular American tunes like "Let it Be" and "Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend"). We had just placed our order when two old (drunk) Mongolian men sat down beside us at our table at first claiming to just want to watch the singer, but later began encroaching more and more until they were flagrantly attempting to steal Pedro's beer. The guys were really frustrated because we couldn't get the old men to leave, so we left - and left our new buddies the bill - and ended up in another restaurant and pub called the Savannah. It was eerily quiet there, but at least we were left alone! (For the record, I thought those two old men were pretty hilarious.) After Savannah, we went to yet another "Irish pub" near the hostel and sampled some local Mongolian beer.
Though Ulaan Baatar is no New York City, I'm finding that it certainly has a very particular urban experience to offer its visitors.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Hello Ulaan Baatar!
Though it is incredibly difficult for a person who'd been travelling for 26 hours and whose baggage has been misplaced by the airline to feel excitement, but I can safely say that I am probably the most excited person in the world.
My journey went very well, other than getting my baggage misplaced (Korean Air is a really class act, so they've been very helpful in getting it back to me.) When I arrived in Ulaan Baatar, I hitched a ride from the Chingiss Khan International Airport to the UB Guesthouse downtown in the car of a local couple - who charged me a little too much money, I think, because I am American and look like I don't know any better. They were at least friendly and excited to meet me (again, probably because of the $$ they knew they would get..) even though we could barely communicate.
Driving in Ulaan Baatar is an interesting business to say the least. The roads are filled with cars from all over the world - land rovers, volkswagens, hundai accents, and russian jeeps - and as far as the rules of the road are concerned, it's pretty much Marshall Law.
We had a heck of a time finding this guest house as it is tucked away behind a series of shops. The building has a combination lock on the front door, however the combination is posted outside so I had no trouble getting in - yes, I understand the irony.
Most of the guests at this guest house - I'm staying dorm style in a room with 5 other guests - are travellers about my age from countries like Canada, Australia and England, but I have also befriended a girl from Lithuania, a guy from the Dominican Republic and a group from Japan.
As soon as I get my baggage resolved, I'm off to explore the city of Ulaan Baatar. I cannot post any pictures right now, as I am using a borrowed computer, but as soon as I have access to a WiFi connection, I'll send some along. This is a very strange and interesting city and I can't wait to show you!
My journey went very well, other than getting my baggage misplaced (Korean Air is a really class act, so they've been very helpful in getting it back to me.) When I arrived in Ulaan Baatar, I hitched a ride from the Chingiss Khan International Airport to the UB Guesthouse downtown in the car of a local couple - who charged me a little too much money, I think, because I am American and look like I don't know any better. They were at least friendly and excited to meet me (again, probably because of the $$ they knew they would get..) even though we could barely communicate.
Driving in Ulaan Baatar is an interesting business to say the least. The roads are filled with cars from all over the world - land rovers, volkswagens, hundai accents, and russian jeeps - and as far as the rules of the road are concerned, it's pretty much Marshall Law.
We had a heck of a time finding this guest house as it is tucked away behind a series of shops. The building has a combination lock on the front door, however the combination is posted outside so I had no trouble getting in - yes, I understand the irony.
Most of the guests at this guest house - I'm staying dorm style in a room with 5 other guests - are travellers about my age from countries like Canada, Australia and England, but I have also befriended a girl from Lithuania, a guy from the Dominican Republic and a group from Japan.
As soon as I get my baggage resolved, I'm off to explore the city of Ulaan Baatar. I cannot post any pictures right now, as I am using a borrowed computer, but as soon as I have access to a WiFi connection, I'll send some along. This is a very strange and interesting city and I can't wait to show you!
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Bye, Bye Philly!
Well, my loyal fans and supporters, the time has finally come to actually go to Mongolia! I write to you from my cushy seat on the New York bound Bolt Bus - lots of leg room, flat panel TVs, friendly drivers and free WiFi all for the same price as the Chinatown bus.
But, enough commercials.
Though excitement fills me - despite being awake since 5 this morning - I don't believe I've quite realized yet that this is actually happening. Regardless of whether I realize it or not, it IS in fact happening - I AM going to Mongolia.
I have a long journey ahead of me: This morning, Aunt Margot and Uncle Bob dropped me off at 30th Street to catch the Bolt Bus to New York. When I arrive in New York, I will take the subway (and then the mysterious AirTrain) to JFK airport. My flight to Seoul departs at 2:00 p.m. I will transfer onto another flight from Seoul to Ulaan Baatar which will arrive at 9:10 p.m. (Mongolian time). I will then take a taxi to the UB Guesthouse where the friendly staff awaits my arrival.
I promise to keep in touch!
But, enough commercials.
Though excitement fills me - despite being awake since 5 this morning - I don't believe I've quite realized yet that this is actually happening. Regardless of whether I realize it or not, it IS in fact happening - I AM going to Mongolia.
I have a long journey ahead of me: This morning, Aunt Margot and Uncle Bob dropped me off at 30th Street to catch the Bolt Bus to New York. When I arrive in New York, I will take the subway (and then the mysterious AirTrain) to JFK airport. My flight to Seoul departs at 2:00 p.m. I will transfer onto another flight from Seoul to Ulaan Baatar which will arrive at 9:10 p.m. (Mongolian time). I will then take a taxi to the UB Guesthouse where the friendly staff awaits my arrival.
I promise to keep in touch!
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